This was a big event on an intimate scale. On the night we went, 10 lucky people (we were 2 of them) sat round one long table and were served 16 courses. Alex, Eddie, Sarah and a host of chefs moved around us like worker bees producing nectar. There was an atmosphere of calm authority and we were carried along on a culinary cloud in which time (and cost) were secondary to the succession of mind-blowing tastes and explorations.

“Beef fat aged lobster, red gooseberries and cherry tomatoes” (course No 8) is like saying “Visit the Lake District”. It’s a set of instructions. Tasting it, and then having that linger on your tongue and in your memory for days afterwards, is similar to walking in the Lakes on a sun-filled Autumn afternoon. The experience ingrains itself in your mind.